FOR spring, Anna Sui loosened her grip on the rock ’n’ roll-bohemia she’s made her signature to make way for a new and impressive aesthetic – Forties burlesque glamour via Studio 54.
Sui has gained a reputation for cultivating specific and exclusive left-of-centre references, but transforming them into collections of modern, accessible clothing that has over the last 20-plus-years proven a favourite both cross-culturally and cross-demographically. his season was no exception, with the designer focusing her attention on the intriguing Club Sept, the creative melting-pot and definitive place to be of Seventies Paris fashion - in particular focusing on American illustrator Antonio Lopez’s impact on the scene. This vision was expanded to involve a little disco fever, in the form of turbans atop frizzed-out hair, flared trouser ensembles, sexy lacquered lips, flowing skirts and long hemlines, and just a little sequin and shimmering embellishment.
As usual, a glowing Karen Elson opened the show, this season stepping out to a wildly enthusiastic crowd, broadly smiling in an adorable Forties-style dress, with a black and white marabou shrug. Other key looks included a knock-out black tulle kimono, atop silk shorts, sailor-inspired romper with sailor hat, a high-waisted skirt paired with a super-cute bustier top and sculpted waist-cinched blazer, a butterfly winged sheer silk dress and insanely sweet heart-print dresses in both black and peach. The collection was well-edited and well-conceived, and all wonderfully Anna Sui - guaranteed to win over her adoring fans yet again.